1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support with jack stands. (Refer to the owners’ manual for proper jack points.) Be sure to block the rear wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Remove the mounting bolts for the stock caliper and hang caliper out of the way. Do not let it hang by the brake line. Use a wire or zip-tie to hold it up. Unscrew the retaining bolt to remove your stock rotor.
4. Remove rubber OEM brake line and caliper, cap hard-line with vacuum cap to help prevent draining of brake fluid from the reservoir.
5. Install the new caliper bracket, reusing stock mounting bolts, to the outboard side of the knuckle with the overhanging portion facing inboard towards the car (Fig. 1). Use blue Loctite and torque to 70-80 ft-lbs.
6. Install new rotors.
7. Place caliper over rotor and secure to the caliper bracket with the M12 x 60mm bolts and washers. Use red Loctite and torque to 54 ft-lbs.
8. Attach the new stainless steel brake lines to the caliper with a banjo bolt and two crush washers. Route through the brake line bracket and attach to the OE hard brake line. Torque to 10 ft-lbs. Turn steering lock to lock and verify routing of brake line and ABS sensor line does not interfere with anything.
9. Refill the brake master cylinder and bleed the brakes.
10. Check the rotor and caliper for any obstructions. Recheck installation.
11. Install wheels. Important! Hand tighten the lug nuts, then progressively in a crisscross pattern torque to 90 ft-lbs (or to the torque recommended by your wheel manufacturer). Check for wheel clearance to the caliper by rotating the wheel by hand slowly. If a wheel spacer is being used to provide clearance to the caliper, be sure to use longer wheel stud bolts to properly secure the wheel. Check the brake lines to make sure they are indexed correctly so they do not rub on the wheel under full steering lock both directions.
12. Road Test the car and follow the bed in procedure.
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